If you have more than one floor in your home you can experience noise problems, such as steps or leakage of sound between floors. If you want to soundproof the second floor of your home, so that the noise does not leak above the bottom, you have several options available. The best course of action depends on how finished the second floor before soundproofing and how soundproof floor must be.

Instructions

1. Place a soundproofing material, as a coating or acoustic cork underlayment before installing the floor in the rooms on the second floor if the main floor was not installed yet. Coating of cork and the acoustic coating creates a barrier against noise between floors and can be placed under many soil types, including wood and carpet. Both types of coating are installed directly to the subfloor with adhesive.
2. Place a mat on the floor to create basis soft steps and absorb the sounds. To reduce noise, line the floor under the rug with a cork or foam coating.
3. Add carpets for hard floor surfaces. As with carpets, lining the floors beneath the carpets with a sound absorbing layer, such as cork or foam, or a piece of carpet cut to the size of the carpet. Place small carpets where you can walk around the room without stepping on the wooden floor to silence footsteps.
4. Cover the floor with rubber tiles if the main room floor has already been installed and do not want to raise the floor to install an acoustic coating. Rubber tiles blocks together at their edges to cover the entire floor. Rubber tile flooring can be installed on any type of ground, but stay together more effectively and provide a stronger noise reduction, on hard floors.
5. Lining the walls of the second floor and acoustic curtains if you want the whole room is soundproof panels. Standard bars hanging curtains or shades fixed directly to the walls. Acoustic panels usually come with their own installation tool, consisting of a hanger and screws, as well as the tools that come with a picture frame.

If you are a contractor and you have to make a contribution to a customer for installation of tiles, there are several steps. Tile installation is a complex work and if you omit something could ruin it. To make a contribution for the installation of tiles, you have to pay attention to every detail of the area and make sure to include all materials needed for installation.

Instructions

1. Draw a diagram of the room where the tiles will be installed. Better to use graph paper and a pencil in this process, because you can correct the drawing if you make a mistake. With the tape measure takes dimensions of the room and then pass them to the diagram.
2. Calculate the tiles per square meter you will be needed to do the job. To do this, multiply the length by the width of each rectangular or square area. Record the square footage of each area in your chart and add up all the amounts to get the full accurate square meters of space. Then, add 5% of that figure to account for waste. Add another 5% if the tiles are installed in a pattern.
3. Determine the amount of grout and adhesive needed to do the job; in most cases, they can cover approximately 100 ft2 (9.30 m2) with a sack of tile mortar. Normally they can cover 70 to 100 ft2 (6.50 m2 to 9.30 m2) with tile adhesive using a sack. Divide the total square meters from 9.30 to obtain an estimate of the number of bags you will need. You may want to round off the amounts to ensure you have enough material.
4. Determine how long it takes to complete the job. Each installer can cover a different number of square meters in a day. For example, you can have a worker to cover an average of 300 ft2 (27 m2) with tiles a day. If this is the case, divide the number of square meters between 27. In this way, you can give your customers an idea of ​​how long it will take work.
5. Calculate how much to charge for each product and service. To be profitable, you must have a certain percentage you need to add for installation. This will cover general costs, such as transportation, administrative costs, rent and other expenses cost. You can add this percentage to the cost of the tiles, mortar and other materials. This will also allow you to get enough profit.
6. Calculate the price of tile, mortar and workmanship. Multiply the number of square meters of tiles needed for the job by the price per square meter of tiles. Then multiply the square footage of tile for the price charged by a worker installing. Multiply the number of bags of mortar and adhesive price respectively. Add the total cost of each and then add the sales tax if that applies in your area. Write this information on a sheet of trading to give to your potential customer. A quote sheet is a document that every company gives flooring materials with the company logo and other important information. It’s like a bill, except that it only provides information on the total cost and materials needed for the job.

Tips & Warnings

• Determines whether need to do additional charges, For example, you may have to make an extra charge for soil preparation; if the floor is uneven or has some other floor, or if the installation is done in a bathroom, you have to remove the toilet to get better results.

Wire mesh fence is a good option to install around your garden when you do not care much for privacy but you want to focus on security. A strong wire mesh fence prevents wild and human intruders from accessing your garden, especially if you have six feet (1.8 meters) or more in height. A mesh fence is also a good choice to locate around your garden to protect your plants or around the pool to protect children when you’re not there to watch them.

Instructions

1. Determine exactly where you want to install the fence. Then walk around the perimeter placing stakes on the ground every 10 feet (3 meters) and every time I turn around a corner. Each stake represents a pole. Once you have all the pins in place, tie a clothesline with you’re done. Repeats what walked back line passing through the peg holes as you go. Whenever you see that the rack is not right moves to fix the stake.
2. Go to one of the stakes of termination (those in the corners or on the house) and pull it out of the floor. Punch a hole 10 inches wide (25 cm) with 1/3 excavator termination height of the fence post (which are a bit higher than the other). Repeat this process with the other posts of termination.
3. Now pay attention to the other stakes in the ground. Remove and replace each through a whole 8 inches (20 cm) which is 1/3 of the height of the fence post.
4. Wheelbarrow filled with a mixture of four parts gravel, two parts sand and one part cement. Water in the concrete mixture two minutes earlier as indicated by the package. Add the corresponding post in each hole. Then pour the mixture you just did to fill it, until you reach ground level.
5. He hopes one day to affirm the posts. Then you are looking for tension bands. Located one on each pole end, sliding down 10 inches (25 cm), it measures two inches (5 cm) up side of each extension and put a brace. Located on top of each terminal post to post a lid, and then cover each of the posts remaining loop with a lid. Take your top bar and pass through each loop cap. Then use the round head screw to hold the rod in each post termination. Every time you take a walk, begins with a new top bar.
6. Unroll the mesh wire fence and hold it to the tension band on the left far corner using the carriage bolt. Then unroll as you walk through the posts. Use wire handles to hold the top slots each 3 feet (0.60 meters). Additional uses a round head screw to secure each band tension as each post termination raisins.

Tips & Warnings

• Make the holes slightly wider at the bottom to better accommodate the cement mixture poles.

No need to be an experienced builder or an artist’s brush to create in your home a decorative imitation of stone wall. All you need is a little imagination and some supplies that can get in the local shop for home improvement. Some faux painting techniques are easy to master and really create the illusion that your wall is made ​​from real stone. A decorative wall is a quick and easy project that will give life to any room and also an opportunity for the whole family to participate.

Instructions

1. Choose a paint color for the base (basically, this is the color of the “slurry”). Usually light gray tone will work best if you want your walls look realistic. Choose a color glaze for what will be the “stones”. In this case, we recommend you choose a shade darker than the base tone. Once the project is completed, the dark varnish will provide a more dramatic look to your wall.
2. Paint the entire wall with the base color using brush and roller. Apply two coats of paint and let dry for at least 12 hours.
3. Use masking tape to outline the “stones” on the wall. You can choose to make all of uniform size or making changes also create different sizes. Taking into account the size of the wall you are painting the plan outlines. “Stones” big look better in a large, open space, while small “rocks” are better suited to a wall with a limited area.
4. Apply the glaze to each “stone”, one by one, using the sponge “sea”. Then give soft blows to the area painted with a piece of cheesecloth to smooth texture and finish to mimic the effect of the stone. Repeat until complete the wall.
5. Remove the painter’s tape. Add a little water to dilute the enamel and covers the entire wall, even on the lines of “slurry” which were covered with tape. This step is not necessary, but adds depth and makes your wall have a more realistic look.

The concrete is often used in different applications of home, like steps, patios, basement slabs, tickets and shower floors. The cords are commonly used in bathrooms, where they form a barrier between the floor shower and the rest of the environment and are designed to be coated with a finishing material. There are different ways to construct a cord, one of which is poured concrete. To do this, you must first build a mold to hold the concrete in place until it dries.

Instructions

1. Measure the width of the shower opening or the place where you want to install the cord. Determine whether you will use a string of 4 inches (10 cm) to 6 inches (15 cm) tall and use appropriately sized timber. Brand two pieces of 2 x 4 inches (5 x 10 cm) or 2 x 6 inch (5 x 10 cm), which will shape the front and back of the cord structure.
2. Cut the pieces of wood with a miter saw. Place a piece of wood inside the miter saw and hold it flush against the fence (the back of the tray) and firmly against the tray. Hold it with one hand and using the other hand to manipulate the saw and take the handle of the blade down along the cut mark wood. Repeat with the second piece.
3. Determine the width of the cord and place the two pieces of wood at a distance corresponding to the width, lifting the edge so that the walls (parts of the front and back) reach a height of 4 to 6 inches ( 10 or 15 cm).
4. Connect the two parts to certain width with two or three crosspieces nailed on top, with a miter saw, cut strips of wood to fit the width of the top. Screw them on the back of the frame to prop the ends and in the central part. Use a carpenter’s square and a level of two feet (60 cm) to make sure your walls are plumb and level with each other.
5. Place the cord in the place where concrete will be poured. Screws inserted along the bottom edge, orienting and directing from the outer side through the bottom of the timber to the outside of the structure. Thus, you will hold the structure in place while the concrete pour. Then pour concrete into the mold and wait 24 to 72 hours. Remove the structure.

Tips & Warnings

• Few cords exceeding 4 inches (10 cm) tall. Unless you are a person who is inclined to the upper echelons, the most common way to build a string it is with tables 2 x 4 inches (5 x 10 cm) on the sides. If you prefer a higher cord, use pieces of 2 x 6 inches (5 x 15 cm), or use an additional depth to the height of the cord is 4.5 inches (11.25 cm).
• The ends of the cord will be blocked by the walls of the shower or the entry in which you install it. No need to cut wood to form the ends of the cord, since the walls and structures of the opening of the shower will serve as building blocks while waiting for the concrete to dry.
• Use safety equipment when working with power tools.

There are many benefits of having a floor of concrete in your shed. Concrete is more durable and easier to clean than other materials, neither chip be deformed, and can work well in most climates. Making your own concrete floor is not difficult and by doing it yourself you can save a lot of money.

Instructions

1. Make sure your shed floor is clean and smooth. If you have a dirt floor, spread it evenly with a rake and a shovel used to break up any hard lumps of dirt.
2. Place planks on the bottom of each wall of the barn to make a frame. This will help the concrete to flush. The plates are then removed and are used only as an extra support to help the concrete to maintain its shape as it sits.
3. Spread a layer about an inch (2.54 cm) thick crushed rock on the floor and uses the shovel to spread it evenly and tamp.
4. Dampen crushed stone to make it slightly damp. Be sure not to wet it so much that you get stagnant water. If so, let the water dry before proceeding.
5. Mix the concrete according to the instructions. Make enough mixture to be able to support a concrete layer about three inches thick. Your package will tell you how much concrete is needed to do this.
6. Pour the concrete starting from the rear and working forward. Use a spreader concrete to make concrete layer remaining partner.
7. Remove the planks once the concrete has settled and let dry completely.

Tips & Warnings

• If you have trouble filling the crushed rock, you can first pour a thin layer of sand underneath.
• Pour the concrete as soon as possible after mixing to not settle before throwing.

Bamboo fences can bring a semblance of East to your yard back. Bamboo is durable and weather resistant, its color, and texture naturally complement almost any landscape. The best part is you can do a bamboo fence in a later simply by following these steps.

Instructions

1. Digs holes that measure 1 foot (0.3 meters) deep and at least 4 feet (1.21 meters) away, using a whole digger or swords
2. Insert bamboo poles into the holes; use a string to ensure that the caps are properly balanced. Compresses post holes after filling.
3. Check the inside of the posts at intervals of 6, 12 and 24 inches (15, 30 and 61 inches) from the top. Drill pilot holes through the posts at each mark to prevent the bamboo splits.
4. Attach your jig saw to a drill and drill the holes. When the bit is in the whole energy increases slowly and makes a complete hole through the post. Repeat for each post.
5. Hammer posts about 24 inches (60 cm) below and along the floor to secure them, with each post on the rod pushes down firmly until the rebar through the diaphragm remains of bamboo.
6. Short straight stems for cross tables to match the inner dimensions of the fence panel’s bamboo. One inch (2.54 cm) should be Additional bamboo allowed to be inserted into the post ½ inch (1.27 cm). Once you know the position of each piece drilling a whole ½ inch (1.27 cm) in each position.
7. Insert studs, when they are placed straight rotate each way. Stick it to the post with a sufficiently long nail to penetrate the post. Avoid hitting the nail bamboo or it may break. If you have trouble installing a cross, enlarge the hole with a wood rasp.
8. Add vertical rods. Use a string to make sure they are level. Cut the top edge facing up to the nearest board.

Tips & Warnings

• The addition of a vertical pole is optional. It is mainly used to provide a more finished look; it does not improve the structure of the bamboo fence.
• Never keys directly on bamboo; use a drill and nail driver.
• Use gloves to avoid splinters.
• Apply petroleum or natural preservatives.
• The bamboo poles vary in color, righteousness, cracking and joint position. Count on it in your design.

A small bedroom can be challenging for decoration, but it becomes even more frustrating when you add a large bed. The good news is that there are ways to make it feel bigger, even with the presence of prominent cabinet. Think of your room as a haven of rest instead of a multi-purpose area, and decorate it with that intention.

Instructions

1. Add Color. Paint the walls of your room using bright light colors. It emphasizes only to add the illusion of depth by painting the wall on which rests your bed. If you choose to use wallpaper, choose the vertical lines to make the room look bigger to attract attention upward.
2. Place your bed against the center wall in the middle of the room, to create free space on both sides. If you have one with head and foot, discard the latter to create more space.
3. Use linens and colorful cushions to draw attention to bed. As this will be the focal point of the small room; accentuate using bright colors or fun patterns to attract attention. A canopy is another idea for a small bedroom as it uses vertical space and adds a focus of extra attention.
4. Reduce clutter and storing large furniture items in drawers under the bed. Too much furniture can cram your room and make it look even smaller. Buy containers that can slide under the bed to store things, and leverages other storage spaces.
5. Avoid the profusion of pictures on the walls. Choose a beautiful and unique piece, or hang a mirror in place. Too much decoration on makes them seem smaller and therefore the fourth overall looks smaller. A mirror can provide an illusion of space, and one with a cute frame that hangs above the bed, gives a nice touch of decoration without being overdone.

Roofing is not difficult to do well if you have the right tools and materials as well as the time to put the foundations properly. The first and most important when making this work is to verify the standards of security you need to take when you go up a ladder or you are in a high ceiling.

Safety

Work with another person when you decide roofing your house. This makes the work go faster and increases your level of security and provides a second revision to prevent potential hazards. On a steep roof, you’ll need a harness and a lanyard that locks into the roof top, you can tie around the base of a chimney or a ceiling bracket that you check are fixed. Use nonskid shoes, heavy gloves to prevent possible abrasion on your hands. Wear a hat and sunglasses to prevent overheating and sunburn.

The tools

You can remove the old shingles using a shovel, but it’s faster and easier to do it with tiles remover made for this purpose. This tool looks like a shovel, but in the end has notches up the nail heads and shingles shows more easily than a shovel. You will need a hammer to drive new and a tile cutter. This will also you can do with an exact or a pair of tin snips. A tape measure will be very useful for the proper positioning of the new shingles and in this way, you make sure everything is in place.

The materials

Depending on the condition of the old shingles, you can install new about them. This saves the problem of preventing it and the cost to get rid of them. If you see that the old shingles are worn and rise from the ceiling, you have to remove them. If the tar paper under the old shingles is damaged or worn, you have to replace too. For this work, all you need is a roll of tar paper and shingles some packages. If the headliner has rotted or damaged, you must buy plywood to replace wood.

Access

The surest way to access the edge of a roof is via a scaffold built to the edge of the roof, providing a solid base where you can walk. If you have scaffolding and do not want to rent one, you can do the job using a sturdy ladder, but you must make sure that the ladder is fully seated and firmly put. Once teaches the first three or four feet (91.44 cm or 1.21 m) ceiling, can no longer reach the rest and you have to get on the roof. But if this was too steep to provide secure support, you need to install poles on the roof to get on and stay safe.

The damper is a metal plate located inside the chimney of a wood home. It is closed when the stove is not lit to prevent entry of air cool the house. When the fire is lit, the damper must be opened to release the smoke. To handle a lever located in an easily accessible place near the front of the home is used. Over time, the damper may stick, rust, corrode or get out of alignment. Signs that are not working well it is impossible to close or open or closed or incompletely opened, making smoke from entering the house when the home is on or cold air when there is no fire in it.

Instructions

1. Eliminate all wood and ashes. Bare waste with a hand brush and discard in a metal bucket. Place a plastic tarp or cloth around the opening and onto the floor in front of the home for protection.
2. Use a flashlight to locate the damper in the chimney. You will find 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) from the opening thereof. Toggles to determine what problem you may have. If the damper does not open or does not close, push it by hand. When the boards are exposed, drizzle with a lubricant household. Pull the lever again to see if it works. If you do not open, or if it is not firmly in place to close, proceed to the next step.
3. Remove the screws holding the regulator shot turning counterclockwise to clockwise with a wrench. Probably you should spray them with penetrating lubricant rust before unscrewing. Once you have removed the screws, the damper will move. Turn it sideways enough to slide the metal rod that holds it in place. After removing the rod, the damper should fall fireplace inspect it. There may be a large accumulation of creosote, which could hinder the closing. If so, clean it by scraping with a metal scraper. If the shooting regular or seems bent or damaged in any permanent way, you should replace it.
4. Bring the old regulator shooting at a parts store or a big hardware households. Buy a new one of the same size. It would also be good to buy new screws of the same size as the old ones, if they are deformed or damaged.
5. Buy a damper about the right size, if you do not get one of the exact same sizes. Placing one of an inaccurate size will take more work and costs as you will probably have to remove some of the masonry chimney. It may be less expensive to buy a damper to place in the chimney outlet. This relatively new style of dampers has the added benefit of keeping out the birds and other small animals in the chimney flue. In both cases, use a lever handle near.

Tips & Warnings

• Use gloves, old clothing, a cover for the hair and a cloth over your nose and mouth because while working inside the chimney flue ash falls on you, especially if you remove the old regulator shooting.