The distribution stage is the first step to renovate or build a bathroom. Before adding the finishing touches, such as pavement or tiles, you must make a distribution of the main basic structures of pipes and elements most important, including bathtub, shower, toilet and sink. Before you do it, see building codes and local laws (in some areas only are allowed to make licensed plumbers).

The installation diagram thick or hidden

Normally, making a chart is the first step to install a bathroom. A simple diagram used to show the distribution of pipes and ventilation of the room, coming to every element of the bathroom lines. The diagram usually shows various pipe sizes, the elements used to unite and used for ventilation.

Designing the pipes

Once you’ve made the diagram, the first step in a bath physical distribution involves drawing the pipes and eliminates bringing the bathwater. Once you have marked the pipe system according to the diagram, you can try to check for leaks, even before connecting the toilet, sink and other elements. Use tongs to hold the elbows where the toilet and other items should be placed. Leave the water running in the system to check for leaks.

Installing toilets, bathtubs and sinks

Finally, the installation process involves connecting pipes from the bathroom to your appliances, such as toilets, bidets, tubs, showers and sinks. Usually, manufacturers provide the measures required by each device, which determine the ideal space between the nearest wall and drainage. For example, to toilets, the distance between the drain and the nearest wall is 12 inches (30 cm), sometimes known just as thick or hidden installation. In addition, this process might include installing basic valves, known as installing valves that control the flow of hot and cold water even before it reaches the tap of the device.

Permits

According to building codes in your area, you might have to apply for building permits for new construction or renovations either before or after the phase of thick or hidden installation. In some cases, you need to present the installation diagrams to municipal housing department or association of the community to continue the process. Check all the requirements in your area to decide if you can do it yourself or if you need a licensed architect or a contractor do it for you.

Simple tools and entrepreneurial spirit are the only requirements for a very skilled carpenter to make any number of small carpentry projects. The cut will be easier with a saw machine, but you can use a manual one for most of these jobs.

Aviary framework

If you plan to build an aviary for decorative purposes or not, it is likely that birds will find their way to the house. The size of the hole you make for entry, determine which species will find it more desirable. For example a hole of 1 inch (2.54 cm) will attract, however 1/8 inch (2.86 cm) seduce them chickadees and 3/8 inch ( 3.4 cm) can be used. To make your birdhouse, cut two triangles of the same size with a base of eight inches (20 cm) to the front and the back beam with a hole in the back for hanging on the front and one for an entry. For the base, cut a rectangle of 8.25 inches (20.6 cm) by 5 inches (12.5 cm) with beveled edges at 60 degrees. Section two panels for ceiling of 8.75 inches (20.9 cm) by 6 inches (15 cm) with points inclined to meet the peak. Use glue and finishing nails to assemble.

Cutting boards for serving

Choosing a piece of wood attractive and efficient is the first step for any table or cutting to serve. The soft wood such as pine is a good choice for first, while hard one as walnut, teak or maple is good for a cutting board. Use a saw to sever a simple square, circle or design a form with a handle at the end. After cutting, sanding the surface and edges; end with an oil to leave the natural color of the wood shining. The table can be flat on the table or you can screw it down to place the legs.

Candlesticks

The scrap wood and creative imagination are all you need to design simple and beautiful pine or Douglas fir chandeliers. For example, a series of square blocks of wood to hold candles of different heights can be placed directly on the table or can be placed artistically on the basis of this material. A good sanding and improve oil finish wood grain or you can paint the candlesticks with vivid and vibrant colors for a more casual look.

Garden bench with two tables

Using a rough cut of redwood or cedar of two inches (5 cm) and only three saw cuts, a homeowner can make a strong outer bank shortly. The first is due to 50 inches (125 cm) long in a wood of 2 by 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) to the center leg brace, number two produced two sections of 13 inches (32.5 cm) of wood leg straps on each side, which are connected by these and the third is made into a table for the top of 14 to 16 inches (35 to 40 cm) wide. Nailing and cutting the pieces together are simple and easy to do. A good sanding minimizes chips.

You did your research and learn to install plates based on cement, tiles, glue and all unforeseen aspects of a construction project. Put blood, sweat and tears in the work of the shower with new tile, and the end result shows your effort. However, the remaining step, grout tile shower, you can easily make or will break the quality of your tile project. Remember to use sanded grout for grout lines of 1/8 inch (0.31 cm) or larger, and for use unhanded grout lines less than 1/8 inch (0.31 cm).

Consistency and application

Achieving the correct consistency of the slurry is the first secret for shower tiles. For example, if the slurry is too thin or “soup” made ​​a terrible mess that needs additional cleaning and unnecessary physical effort. Those skilled in placing tiles mix until right slurry consistency is reached and the average thickness applied with a rubber spatula. Which apply rubbing in grout lines, then “cut” the excess back at an angle of 45 degrees with rubber spatula. Also, make sure the grout compact grout joints, preventing any formation of hollow point in it.

Test area and take your time

When grouting begin slowly and rub an area of ​​initial test to see how it responds to the slurry material. This way you can get an idea of ​​how far you can get the grout. For example, if the grout dries within minutes, it is a good idea not to apply too much grout too fast. Take your time and do good work; extending the grout too far can result in tiles disaster.

Drying time

Wait 30 minutes to an hour to allow grout joints to dry until a medium consistency before washing the excess grout with a sponge and water. Faster drying times are possible in the heat; slower drying times are common in cold conditions. Read the manufacturer’s instructions to know the proper temperature of the slurry. Trying to speed things up by washing too early only make the grout lines and whole process to be washed. Also, keep in mind that often the grout dries faster on the tile surface but is still wet in the grout lines. Keep free shower tiles of grout as much as possible during the process to prevent damage to tiles surface.

Grout release

Expert’s tillers use a liberating grout (also known as penetrating sealer) to seal the surface of porous natural stone or ceramic tile shower. A grout release effectively blocks much of the staining properties of cement slurries and prevents them from drying too quickly in the joints or on the surface of the tile. Stores and home improvement providers have penetrating sealers tiles used as a grout release.

When clean windows, maybe you encounter a situation where you cannot access the window from the outside so you need to remove it. If the window is too high for you or anything obstructs or does not come off, knowing how to remove it will be very useful.

Instructions:

1. Select the window you want to remove. Check it out it and remove any device of security in preventive track basis.
2. Inspect the side rails of the window at the top to see if there are screws. If so, you have to remove them. The screws are another type of safety device that prevents someone from opening the panel.
3. Check the top track of the window looking for a small piece of rubber in the center, where are the sliding panels and stable matching when the window is closed. This is another kind of protection to keep the windows open. Pry the piece with a screwdriver.
4. Removes the lock on the window.
5. Slide the window almost entirely and take your hands off the panel sides.
6. Lift the entire window, pushing the entire panel into the track above.
7. Change the panel base off the track and then push it down to remove it.

Tips & Warnings

• Make sure you remove the window when the throw to avoid firm. The windows can be very heavy so be prepared.

As soon as you open your home to a dog, the possibility that the carpets have an occasional puddle of urine arises. While there are many commercial products and local pet stores carpet that may help if this happens, the stain will not wait for you to buy. Have a recipe to solve your own crisis of dog urine could save your carpet and day.

Cat litter

However improbable, the first ingredient for the elimination of urine is cat litter; Cat litter scattered on absorb moisture. If you don’t have cat litter, use old towels. Dry urine as much as you can; Stand on the towels to make sure not only absorb urine from the carpet, but also below the pads. When they are not collecting more, it’s time for carpet cleaning solution.

White vinegar and powdered laundry detergent

Mix 1/2 cup of powdered detergent and 1/2 cup white vinegar. White vinegar neutralizes uric acid in urine. Dog urine contains water, ammonia, uric acid and germs. After removal, still leaves traces of uric acid. This eventually crystallizes combined with hydrogen and sulfur dust and dirt common mar captain gas releases. Using the solution to neutralize uric acid and eliminate the possibility of it turns into gas. Pour enough solution in the field and to absorb the urine completely from the back of the carpet to the floor cushion. White vinegar also has antiseptic to disinfect your carpet and floor. Dry it or delete it with cat litter.

Sodium bicarbonate

The final step in cleaning the urine stain the carpet, according to the University of Maine, is dry vinegar and pours sparkling water in the wetland. Dry sparkling mineral water and use a spray bottle, spraying the area with vinegar. Put dry towels and cover with something heavy to absorb the maximum amount of residual moisture.

Follow up

You will not be sure you’ve solved the problem until the carpet is exposed to high humidity. Wait a wet day to see if your carpet is kept fresh. If the smell of urine is significant, repeat the process.

Ventilation ducts for dryers are quite easy to install and use, but can also cause potentially costly problems. Creates a route for safe and reliable air flow, essential to ensure optimal operation of your moisture dryer and protect your home from damage. Some key considerations can help you choose the best methods and materials for dryer’s vents.

Materials

There are several effective and widely available materials for vents dryers. The most common is the flexible aluminum, which can stretch and bend to follow the desired path. This line works well and is very versatile, but can be a little hard to expand and place at first. If ventilation should extend 10 feet (3 m), you may want to consider the rigid metal pipe or conduit. This is similar to heating and cooling ducts in your home and cause minimal air flow resistance, which is important to the other vents. Hoses aluminum layers are also available and can be useful for short distances in a particularly strong point, although create greater air resistance than regular aluminum. Never use plastic flexible duct to dry vents. Although plastic ducts resemble those of aluminum and vents are fine for bathing, they do not hold up well with warm air and could catch fire.

Wind route

Ideally, the road between the dryer and the end of the grid as short and straight as possible, If the outputs become longer and include more twists and turns, your dryer will have to work harder to push the air and growing potential for accumulation of lint, moisture and heat. Most dryers and ventilation components include recommended settings, and the staff in your store systems can also offer such advice. As a general rule, try to keep ventilation within 25 feet (7.62 m) long and minimize the number of bends (especially the 90-degree turns). When a ducts or pipes, compression using metal clamps or foil tape to seal all joints and keep air and moisture to avoid escape. If you run the ventilation through an unheated attic, isolate that section of pipe to prevent condensation from forming on the inside.

Starting

The dryer must always be vented outdoors if possible. Search the vent in a hidden place that is free of obstructions and open to good airflow. You may also want to avoid high traffic areas or highly visible and vulnerable to damage from water locations (for example, the bottom of a deck or stairs) to avoid problems with the accumulation of moisture and lint. Ventilation patio or through a roof cap is usually a good choice. If needed, you can ventilate an electric dryer in a garage or else use a kit of indoor ventilation in the basement, but you get a lot of moisture and lint in that room. For safety reasons, gas dryers must always be well ventilated outdoor.

Maintenance

You may also want to avoid high traffic areas; be sure to clean the bag with dryer lint every load, and if possible, avoid using fabric softener, which can aggravate the problem of fluff.

If you have more than one floor in your home you can experience noise problems, such as steps or leakage of sound between floors. If you want to soundproof the second floor of your home, so that the noise does not leak above the bottom, you have several options available. The best course of action depends on how finished the second floor before soundproofing and how soundproof floor must be.

Instructions:

1. Place a soundproofing material, as a coating or acoustic cork underlayment before installing the floor in the rooms on the second floor if the main floor was not installed yet. Coating of cork and the acoustic coating creates a barrier against noise between floors and can be placed under many soil types, including wood and carpet. Both types of coating are installed directly to the subfloor with adhesive.
2. Place a mat on the floor to create basis soft steps and absorb the sounds. To reduce noise, line the floor under the rug with a cork or foam coating.
3. Add carpets for hard floor surfaces. As with carpets, lining the floors beneath the carpets with a sound absorbing layer, such as cork or foam, or a piece of carpet cut to the size of the carpet. Place small carpets where you can walk around the room without stepping on the wooden floor to silence footsteps.
4. Cover the floor with rubber tiles if the main room floor has already been installed and do not want to raise the floor to install an acoustic coating. Rubber tiles blocks together at their edges to cover the entire floor. Rubber tile flooring can be installed on any type of ground, but stay together more effectively and provide a stronger noise reduction, on hard floors.
5. Lining the walls of the second floor and acoustic curtains if you want the whole room is soundproof panels. Standard bars hanging curtains or shades fixed directly to the walls. Acoustic panels usually come with their own installation tool, consisting of a hanger and screws, as well as the tools that come with a picture frame.

Placing tiles may seem difficult for someone who has never tried before this task. However, you will probably find that the most difficult task is to remove and replace the toilet, everything else is easy. While placing tiles on a bathroom is easy because it is a small room, you can also present some challenges, such as cut of the tiles to fit in corners or around pipes. You must be prepared for this work will take a few days, and you should plan ahead if you have an extra bathroom.

Instructions

Prepare the bathroom floor

1. Remove the toilet of the bathroom. You can remove it after closing the water stopcock and empty the water tank. Then disconnect the water connection of the toilet. Then remove the covers of the screws that hold the toilet to the floor, and unscrew the nuts with a wrench. Use a utility knife to cut the putty that seals the toilet to the floor. Lift the toilet right up to remove it. Then, place a damp cloth on the rim of the opening to prevent the gas from sewers entering your home.
2. Relieve the base molding with a spatula. No need to remove the socket. However, remove the backboard and lift your tile floor about 3/4 (1.91 cm) inches. So if you think that the socket will be very small, you can remove it as well.
3. If you also plan to replace the sink, you should remove it now. If you want to keep it, then leave it in place.
4. Remove all the old ground if necessary. You can find more information on how to remove different types of floors .Avoid removing vinyl flooring that contains asbestos. If a large part of the floor is loose or lifted, you will need to remove it before continuing.
5. Jacking galvanized bolts of 2 1/2 inches (6.35 cm) across the floor beams within intervals of 8 inches (20.32 cm). You can find the beams by drilling a small hole near the wall. If the piece breaks off and is a hollow space, move 1 inch (2.54 cm) and try again. The beams are generally between 16 and 24 inches (40.64 cm and 60.96 cm) distance between them. This step will ensure that the subsoil and base are secure.
6. Undermines below the rim of the door to make room for the raised floor. Place a piece of backboard, a tile and two pieces of cardboard next to the door. Then cut and remove the trim with a saw or jamb saw.
7. Sweep and clean the floor thoroughly. If you leave on the floor vinyl or linoleum in place, remove the paint to remove waxy residue. Use a pickling commercial vinyl or linoleum according to the instructions on the label.
8. Use duct tapes to wrap the copper pipes that pass through the floor to prevent grout corrode copper. You should also cover the bottom of the tub, shower and sink with masking tape to protect mortar and grout.
9. Remove the loose sections of vinyl and fill the gaps with mortar tail, using the flat of the knife.

Install the backboard

1. Cut and placed all the pieces of the backboard. Leave a space between the tables. You must leave a space of several inches between the backboard and the wall. Escalon tables so you never have four corners that are on a single point. You can make straight cuts with a knife for marking and corners, circles and curves with a drywall saw.
2. Label the tables and set them aside.
3. Vacuuming the floor.
4. Mix as directed by the label cola.
5. Spread glue on the floor. It covers only enough to place a piece of backboard area. Spread it in one direction using a notched trowel 1/4 inch (0.64 cm) at an angle of 45 degrees.
6. Screw the backboard using screws 1 1/4 inch (3.18 cm). These screws must be placed every 6 inches (15.24 cm) around the edges of the backboard and every 8 inches (20.32 cm) along the surface of the table.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until you have placed all the reinforcement boards.
8. Press the cloth tape over joints and places slight tail mortar coverage on it with the flat side of the trowel.
9. Spread glue flush with the tape using the flat side of the trowel.
10. Removes roughness scraping with a spatula once the tail is firm but not hard. Also, drag the spatula over the heads of the screws to remove the lumps and screws which have been protruded.

Place your tile

1. Make a general test to determine the best arrangement of your tiles. Start at the center and put the tiles out. Your goal should be to have equal spaces on the walls. However, you should use full tiles at entrances, along the tub or shower because no sockets covering the edges if they are not even. Use separators tiles to keep them at the correct distance between them. Also, you do not want the tiles directly touch the tub or other devices. Try not to cut the tiles of a width less than 2 inches (5.08 cm). Sets the tile until it meets most of these instructions
2. Cover one side of the two tables of fine guide-tables, rights that are 1 foot (30 cm) shorter than the length and width of the floor-tape (to prevent mortar tail sticking), then screw them to flat. Tables should be close to the wall to allow the whole place all tiles without removing tables guide. Make sure the tables are straight and in the right angle to the other.
3. Mix the mortar glue as indicated by the label. Mix only the amount you will use for the next hour.
4. Moisten the backboard with a wet sponge to prevent the glue dries.
5. With a spatula, spreading mortar few feet tall, this should spread with the flat side of the spatula to distribute it across the floor. Then, comb through the toothed portion of the blade at an angle of 45 degrees.
6. Place the tiles against the guides. Use spacers between the tiles to ensure that they are of equal width.
7. Repeat steps 3-6 until the tiles are placed whole. Remove the excess glue mortar between the tiles.
8. Wait until the glue hardens. The time may vary; review the instructions in the package.
9. Remove guide boards.
10. Cut the perimeter tiles and other cuts. If you try to cut oddly shaped, begins making a cardboard template. Then, trace the outline and cut tile with a tile cutter or wet tile saw. To make straight cuts, most hardware stores or shops selling tiles will cut you if you need to take (and if you bought there). Otherwise, the tiles can be cut with a tile cutter or wet tile saw. Curved cuts can be made with wire cutters to cut tiles.
11. Place and perimeter cut tiles as you did in steps 3 to 6. If there is a very narrow area for your spatula, apply glue mortar on the tile instead of on the floor before placing.

Prepare grouting

1. A ring extension subject on toilet rim by removing the screws, applying a drop of silicone mastic caulking and adjusting on the existing flange with brass or stainless steel screws.
2. Tie a strip of transition at the entrance.
3. Place a rebar in the spaces between the tiles and the wall, tub, shower and sink. This rod will keep the grout away from these areas so that you can caulk later.
4. Wait at least 24 hours for tiles and mortar tail before proceeding to the next step is set.

Grouting on tiles

1. Mix the grout as indicated in the instructions so that the consistency is similar to mashed potatoes.
2. Talca dipping in water and use it to grouting the floor.
3. Use the trowel to press the grout into the joints so that it reaches the floor. Move the trowel diagonally from joints.
4. Holding the trowel at an angle of 45 degrees, remove the excess grout.
5. Gently remove the grout from the tile surface with a damp sponge; be careful not to remove the seals. If you remove the grout sponge, wait a few minutes and try again. Rinse the sponge often.
6. Rinse the floor a second time with a sponge and water. Dry the tiles with a dry tissue curl.
7. Remove the rebar and caulk the joints after leaving the grout to cure overnight.
8. Replace the toilet, sockets (if necessary), the molding of the socket and anything else you have removed the bathroom.
9. After a few days, seal the tile grout sealer.

Tips & Warnings

• No need to cut the tile so that it curves around the rim of the toilet. Instead, cut it into squares so that almost touch it, the corners are covered with the toilet. To ensure that the tile is straight and evenly separated placed a wooden board the same width as the spacers between the tiles as you’re standing.
• Use protective goggles when cutting tiles.

Knowing where to put the furniture in a room can be confusing, especially in small rooms. Follow these steps to accommodate your room with comfort and style.

Instructions

1. Draw a floor plan of the room on paper, including measures and locations of all the dead, windows, radiators and other permanent features. If you’re handy with a computer and you are furnishing more than one room, invest in a service design program available for home decorators.
2. Measure your furniture. Decorators recommend cutting small scale molds and label with the name of the cabinet and measure. This way you can just move around the map to get an idea of ​​what is good in every place.
3. Arrange and rearrange the furniture until everything is right and create a nice flow through the room. Check if you crash with some walking through this arrangement, if the space between 2 pieces of furniture is too small or if the provision is rare. Follow rearranging the furniture until you’re happy with the design.
4. Be creative with your solutions. All furniture does not have to go lined up against the walls. Try placing the bed from a corner diagonally. If you have a large wall with nothing and have no head in bed, try hanging a curtain behind the bed to create a focal point.
5. Apply the basic principles of Fang Shun. Things should not be accumulated in the corners for better energy flow. Keep electrical equipment and cables hidden in a unit with doors. Electrical equipment emits electromagnetic waves that can prevent a peaceful sleep. Hidden equipment also adds elegance to the room.
6. Place the actual furniture according to the layout on paper. If you’ve done your homework on the plan, you can put all the furniture and everything should fit well in place, as you planned.

Tips & Warnings

• If your floor lamps do not enter in your new plan, take them out of the floor and replacethem with lamps on bedside tables. Or, if you like reading in bed, reading lamps installed on the wall on either side of the bed. Other options include light rail, recessed lighting, a spider in the center of the ceiling or a ceiling fan with built-in light.

When remodeling a bathroom, you can choose sheets of glass to cover the walls. This material protects the walls from moisture and is easy to clean, making it a viable choice for bathrooms with high humidity. You can use glass sheets as a backsplash behind the sink to cover the wall. These frosted sheets are available in colors and as stained glass. Strong glue will hold the glass in place to last many years. Installation is like hitting a mirror above the bathroom sink mirror.

Instructions

1. Prepare the wall for cover glass painted with a sealant, such as polyurethane surface. The sealant protects the paint and immediately takes the adhesive. Sealant should be applied with a roller or a cloth. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and allow the sealer dry completely before proceeding.
2. Insert the tube of caulk gun in a sealant, after cutting the tip. Press a nail into the nozzle to open the tube.
3. Align the edge of the glass with putty leaving about half inch (1.2 cm) between the glue line and the edge of the glass. Use a line of adhesive that is 1/8 inch (5 cm) and 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) wide. Only applies glue on the vertical sides. This ensures that air can flow under the glass, so that the glue will dry more quickly. No overlaps the glue or apply it in circles, because it traps air.
4. Press the glass in place on the wall, so that it is firmly in place. Have someone hold the glass while placing the brackets.
5. Place strips of wood on the bottom and on each side of the glass. Use drywall screws and wood screws on a support beam. Wooden strips holding the mirror while drying putty.
6. Allow the putty to dry according to the package instructions, at least 24 hours.
7. Remove the screws from the wood strips and throw. Fill the holes that have left with drywall compound. Paint around the glass to cover holes stuffed.