Ventilation ducts for dryers are quite easy to install and use, but can also cause potentially costly problems. Creates a route for safe and reliable air flow; hot, fuzz and essential to ensure optimal operation of your moisture dryer and protect your home from damage. Some key considerations can help you choose the best methods and materials for dryer’s vents.

Materials

There are several effective and widely available materials for vents dryers. The most common is the flexible aluminum, which can stretch and bend to follow the desired path. This line works well and is very versatile, but can be a little hard to expand and place at first. If ventilation should extend 10 feet (3 m), you may want to consider the rigid metal pipe or conduit. This is similar to heating and cooling ducts in your home and cause minimal air flow resistance, which is important to the other vents. Hoses aluminum layers are also available and can be useful for short distances in a particularly strong point, although create greater air resistance than regular aluminum. Never use plastic flexible duct to dry vents. Although plastic ducts resemble those of aluminum and vents are fine for bathing, they do not hold up well with warm air and could catch fire.

Wind route

Ideally, the road between the dryer and the end of the grid as short and straight as possible, If the outputs become longer and include more twists and turns, your dryer will have to work harder to push the air and growing potential for accumulation of lint, moisture and heat. Most dryers and ventilation components include recommended settings, and the staff in your store systems can also offer such advice. As a general rule, try to keep ventilation within 25 feet (7.62 m) long and minimize the number of bends (especially the 90-degree turns). When a ducts or pipes, compression using metal clamps or foil tape to seal all joints and keep air and moisture to avoid escape. If you run the ventilation through an unheated attic, isolate that section of pipe to prevent condensation from forming on the inside.

Starting

The dryer must always be vented outdoors if possible. Search the vent in a hidden place that is free of obstructions and open to good airflow. You may also want to avoid high traffic areas or highly visible and vulnerable to damage from water locations (for example, the bottom of a deck or stairs) to avoid problems with the accumulation of moisture and lint. Ventilation patio or through a roof cap is usually a good choice. If needed, you can ventilate an electric dryer in a garage or else use a kit of indoor ventilation in the basement, but you get a lot of moisture and lint in that room. For safety reasons, gas dryers must always be well ventilated outdoor.

Maintenance

You may also want to avoid high traffic areas; be sure to clean the bag with dryer lint every load, and if possible, avoid using fabric softener, which can aggravate the problem of fluff.

The art of carpentry has been taught and passed down for generations. The tools have changed, but many of the techniques and methods are still used today in modern carpentry. The tools of carpenters of yesteryear were simple, but let them do the work with amazing accuracy.

Hand drill

A hand drill is the old version of a drill power, unless you were the driver. The drill chuck had a key that allow changing the drill holes of different sizes. The handle was detached from the top, so you could grab the body of the drill and turns the handle. Initially, drills were used to make holes in the wood pegs and nails.

Measuring ruler

Tape measures did not exist in the old days. A measurement rule was used instead. This device was about 4 feet (1.2 m) long, but split into sections of a foot (30 cm) so that it could be folded, and was used to measure everything a carpenter cut or mark.

Handsaw

The saw was used to cut everything from frames to moldings. As in modern blades saws, the saw teeth are dictating the use of the sheet, while longer and were fewer teeth, were rougher cut. Saws with more and shorter teeth were for finish carpentry.

Manual planer

Manual brushing had multiple uses; is mainly used to align the edges of the joints so that both surfaces are leveled or equal. It was a simple wooden block with a flat metal sharp blade, protruding slightly from a slot at the bottom. The blade was angled to avoid marking the wood that was flattening. This tool is also used to put angles on tables, chairs rails and moldings to give them more decorative appeal. Hand planers are often used to touch up the edges of the boards that were to be linked together, so it seemed they were one piece.

 

Although concrete is one of the most durable materials used in construction throughout the world, it has its limitations. There are thickness requirements for residential and commercial use and need a structural engineer to determine the proper thickness in applications. For residential construction you can use a minimum thickness for the project; almost everything that results from a concrete slab which will last many years.

Minimum thickness

The minimum thickness for a concrete slab in any environment is 4 inches (10.16 cm). This thickness can be used for slabs of basements, driveways, patios, porches, sidewalks and any other area where great weight is not expected. The only time a slab should be thicker when it will withstand heavy weight of some kind, such as trucks transporting tons of material or other types of heavy equipment.

Resistance requirements

Concrete is similar to other products that have a rating of strength based on the amount of charge that is expected to bear. The strength of the base to a mixture of concrete slab is 3,000 psi. Housing construction is almost never exceeds this number, you do not worry about the construction of a slab of more than 4 inches (10.16 cm) thick in most residential environments.

Driveways                                                                                                                                        

The only area where you may want to consider having more than 4 inches (10.16 cm) thick is on a road with which you plan on placing heavy equipment near it. For example, a concrete truck can weigh between 25 and 35 tons when it contains material if it is located on a plate which is only 4 inches (10.16 cm) thick slab crack. Normal vehicles and trucks, however, do not weigh enough to break a slab of 4 inches (10.16 cm).

Cured

Regardless of the slab thickness is necessary curing time which ensures solidification of the slab. The concrete hardens and continues to solidify and depending on the climate and the situation may take days or weeks to heal. As a rule, the concrete will reach about 500 psi within 72 hours of application, but the excess heat, freezing or insufficient hydration and other factors may change the curing time.

Create a plan of a bathroom is an important step process of remodeling and design. Ensure you have enough space for all the components you want. It also serves as a guide for the project to reform the bathroom. You can create a simple plan. Some experience in remodeling and home improvements will give you a better idea of how to distribute the components of the bathroom on the plan.

Instructions

1. Measure the bath area. Note the niches, the wardrobes, the shower and other forms of the room.
2. Make a diagram of the bathroom on a piece of graph paper. Use the steps and squares of paper to make a scale drawing.
3. Prefabricated indicated in the drawing if they are to remain in the same place objects. Further notes the doors, windows, outlets, lighting fixtures and pipe connections in the reference plane.
4. Make a list of the items you want to put in the bathroom, and the toilet, shower, tub, toilet, mirror, lighting devices, unloading laundry, linen closet and anything else you want to add in the room.
5. Choose a place of great items like the shower, tub, toilet and vanity. Note the location of the pipes if you want to remodel an existing bathroom. If you’re starting debris, considered the best circulation of the room. Make sure there is enough space around each object for easy use.
6. Add small items such as lights, towel bars and other objects whose placement is flexible. Choose the location of these elements in relation to the others in the room. For example, the bar wants towels near the shower and light fixtures on the dresser to give good working light.
7. Check the signal from each element in the plane of the bathroom to make sense of the design. Pieces of masking tape marks work well for the shapes and sizes of objects on the ground. Also you can cut pieces of cardboard to represent them. Controls the flow of the room and makes the necessary adjustments.

False chimney achieves a visual effect of flickering flames and colors like fire. It also functions as fire props and staging, and makes effective point focus on a fake fireplace. The advantages of the false fire include no real fire hazards, keep the chimney clean and smoke-free air and coal, and the opportunity to add to the room a detailed three-dimensional and dynamic decorative. Adapts the fake fire to your fireplace and make your own topic of conversation. Give your fireplace the atmosphere of a crackling fire with a few elements basic.

Instructions

1. Take the measurements of your fireplace. Plan to fire at least half the height of its opening, Stand at a distance and decide how wide and high false want to make your fire to make it look real. For example, if the distance between the floor of the fireplace and its ceiling is 30 inches, make a fire 15 inches tall. Make fire of at least half the width of the fireplace opening.
2. Buy small logs or cut firewood length you decided in Step 1.
3. A mirror fixed to the back wall of the fireplace, if desired. This will increase the lighting effect and the sense of movement of the fire.
4. Draw flame shapes in cellophane with a marker. Make the shapes of different heights, with each color flame height range you selected in Step 1. Create different heights and shapes to achieve a realistic flame effect. Make that are wide at the base and pointed at the tip.
5. Cut the cellophane around the shape of the flames.
6. Stack the logs in the fireplace to give the appearance of real fire in proportion to the fake fireplace. Leave a space in the middle of the logs to place the fan.
7. Place the fan on the floor of the fireplace, looking up. A small fan of computer designed or sold in electronics stores, or one small rechargeable battery are the best performing.
8. Paste the basis of the call logs, alternating colors. Let the flames to dry for at least 20 minutes.
9. Place a fake candle flickering in the middle of the logs and light it. Turn the fan.

 

You can update your kitchen easily and practically penniless, if you learn how to make doors for the cupboards. It is much less complicated to replace them all. You need to change details simple as finishing wood, paint, handles and knobs to get the kitchen of your dreams.

Instructions

1. Choose the type of wood you prefer to make cabinet doors. Some of the most commonly used are red and white oak, maple, birch and knotty pine. Choose a cut along that better resist changes in temperature and seasonal and will not swell or shrink. Make sure that all cuts are equal to avoid an uneven appearance. A less expensive option is the plywood or wooden paneling, if you plan to paint. You must ensure that the thickness of the wood you choose measure 3/4 inch (1.80 cm). You’ll get at the local lumberyard or you can buy hardwood in store household items.
2. Measure openings cupboards which will add to the doors; if there is any greater than 16 inches (40 cm) by 18 inches (46 cm) it would be a good idea putting on two doors.
3. Decide what style you are going to prepare doors. The two most common styles are flat panel or raised panel. The flat panels are easier to make. They are prepared from hardwood structure with a panel of 1/4 inch (0.6 cm) to match the wood varnish.
4. Sierra desired width tables. Most styles have a width of 2 inches (5 cm) by 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) which is the most attractive. It also makes it easy to calculate how much wood you will need. Set the table saw to cut 2 inches (5 cm) and saw all the pieces once. Add 1 inch (2.5 cm) of extra length. Cut crosswise into desired length. Sierra’s two-piece, if you make a mistake.
5. Calculate the length and width of the panels subtracting 3 1/4 inches (9 cm) the total length of the door to keep the length of the panel, then follows 3 1/4 inches (9 cm) the width of the door to keep the width of the panel. Cut the pieces with the table saw.
6. Sandpaper parts and applies the dye or paint before assembly. Use a wad of 120-grit sandpaper or an orbital sander. Be careful not to sand through the veneer of plywood. Apply the finish you like and let dry completely.
7. Assemble the doors. Add the hinges, knobs or handles to have a more attractive appearance.

In order to facilitate access from the back door to the rear courtyard or from the front door to the sidewalk, it is important to take steps. Cement is the best material for building steps, because they need minimal repairs. If the cement cracks, repair is very simple and will not cost much money.

Instructions

1. Determine where you want to build the steps. Once you’ve determined you have to start to dig the ground. You can leave the land if it is not released. Otherwise remove it all.
2. Position the beams, the stringers are made up as guides that are located in the place where it begins and ends each step. This eliminates the need to calculate the height and depth of the steps.
3. Cut front panels to the steps. The panels are approximately 2 and 6 must be fixed to the stringers. Check how stable is on the floor.
4. Place gravel within the frame. This will help fill the center of the frame, which is where you do not need to use a lot of cement.
5. Pour the concrete into the form (you can also use the shovel to add cement). Hit the frame with a hammer to vibrate the cement mixture in order to help eliminate the possibility of air bubbles or cracking. Smooth the steps with a spatula and make sure the steps are level using a level. Then brush the steps with a broom to make the concrete surface is non-slip.

Tips & Warnings

• Make sure the steps are non-slip to avoid accidents.

Concrete floors have a very versatile surface that besides being very durable is also easy to polish. Not surprisingly, in most of the stores of major products have concrete floors. These can withstand the large amount of traffic and also are easy to clean and maintain. With a few tools and a little knowledge, you can make your concrete floors shine as if made ​​of linoleum.

Instructions

1. Fill all cracks with epoxy putty for concrete. These usually come in a kit to mix the epoxy with a hardener and sand. The amount of sand used depends on the width of the crack. Allow the putty to dry for the recommended amount of time before continuing with the rest of the floor.
2. Sand the floor with rougher sandpaper first. Generally, it is good to hire someone to do this part of the process because professionals have machines that not only sand the floor but also vacuum the concrete dust as you work. Polished concrete floors are becoming increasingly popular, so it’s easy to find contractors for this type of work.
3. The number of the sandpaper. For example, if you started with sandpaper number 80, you go increasing the number until the 1500 for maximum brightness. This type of sand will leave the floor so bright it will be very difficult to be adhered dirt.
4. Applying a sealant against stains to prevent floors absorb dirt and dust. These sealants are usually a formula with epoxy that is applied with a roller or brush on the edges. The gases are quite toxic and should take care that the area is well ventilated, especially if it is a home or a workplace.
5. To keep the floor, clean it with a common mild cleanser. Polished concrete floors are known to require little care and usually all you need to maintain its glossy finish; clean with a soft product. Sometimes people toting electric floors with a brilliant machine to keep them well, especially if it comes from an area with heavy traffic.

 

The concrete blocks are necessary for many construction projects, particularly those outside, as fences and walls. You can buy concrete blocks to different manufacturers, but if you need them tailored for specific projects, or if you just want to save some money, you can do it yourself. Home blocks can give profit if you do for sale. Once you master it, the process is not difficult.

Instructions

1. Place the molds of concrete in the way you want the remaining blocks. You can buy in different stores or make them yourself, using bricks or stones as models.
2. Use a cement mixer with clean sand. The ratio should be 3 parts sand to 1 part cement to normal concrete classes. For a stronger concrete beam mixing 2 parts sand to 1 part cement.
3. Add gravel or limestone to the mixer. The amount of gravel should be almost equal to the mixture of sand and concrete: 3 parts gravel to 2 parts sand, 1 part cement. You may need to experiment a little; too much gravel, you cannot achieve a consistency smooth on your concrete.
4. Add water slowly, stirring until it reaches the right consistency. You can control while stir mixture, removing a sample with a shovel and put a little on the Abrams cone, measuring how the mixture sits. When seated around 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) in the cone, the mixture containing the correct combination of ingredients.
5. Continue concrete mixing for several more minutes until the whole mixture becomes consistent.
6. Spray the inside of your mold with a water-based product to unmold concrete. This allows you to remove the concrete block once it has hardened.
7. Pour the concrete carefully into the mold, then level the top mason using a shovel or a wooden board. Hit a little mix to settle and eliminates air bubbles that have in the mold.
8. Allow the concrete to dry at least 24 hours before attempting to remove the mold. Then press down the entire mold while pulling up block. The block must be left alone and can be used again to make more blocks.

Tips & Warnings

• Once you’ve put the concrete into molds, clean everything quickly. Concrete is much easier to remove from clothing and equipment when it is still wet.
• Always wear protective clothing and cover your nose and mouth while you mix the concrete. The smell is usually very ugly and a respirator prevent any kind of dust aspires.

The sash windows are made ​​of two panels of glass vertically accommodated. Some designs of windows with sash have a removable panel, while in others, the two can move. Traditionally, this type of windows had wooden frames, but modern use aluminum because of its durability and resistance to swelling which produces wet weather. Over time, window rails tend to collect dirt, which can cause the sticking window. A work of poor quality painting can also prevent windows from sliding if the paint dried on the bonds. Fortunately, restore the lubricity of the windows with guillotine is usually a simple job.

Instructions

1. Cut any remaining paint that has dried between the sashes of the window and stops it with a close paint. Be careful to demarcate the edge of the cutters for not inadvertently paint chipping stop and the guillotine. Sometimes the horizontal joint between the front and rear cutters can also be sealed with paint. Clean it with the closure if necessary.
2. Place a block of wood against the window sash and hit it gently with a hammer until the window open. Use the block along the entire length of both cutters. The wooden block is necessary to avoid damaging the soft aluminum.
3. Scrub the rails of the window with a soft brush, such as one for teeth, to remove dirt.
4. Aspire the rails with a handheld vacuum and cleans them with a damp cloth and then allow them to dry.
5. Apply a layer of lubricant oil based on the whole along the rails of the window. Do not use beeswax or paraffin because these products are designed for wood and not for aluminum.